mahjong

Mahjong is a fascinating and complex tile-based game that is equal parts skill, strategy, calculation, and luck. Often called the "game of a hundred intelligences," it's deeply ingrained in the cultures of China, Japan, Korea, and beyond.

Here’s a comprehensive look at this iconic game:

Origins & History

While its exact origins are debated, mahjong is believed to have evolved in China during the mid-to-late 19th century, possibly from earlier Chinese card and domino games. It spread rapidly across China and, in the early 20th century, to the West, where it became a brief but intense fad in the 1920s. Today, it's a global phenomenon, with competitive tournaments worldwide.

The Basic Components

· Tiles: A standard set has 144 tiles, though some variants use fewer. They come in several suits:

  · Suits: Circles (Dots), Bamboos, Characters (Numbers 1-9).

  · Honors: Winds (East, South, West, North) and Dragons (Red, Green, White).

  · Bonuses: Flowers and Seasons (often used for extra points).

· Racks: Players use racks to hold their tiles upright.

· Dice: Used to determine where to break the wall.

The Objective

The core goal is to build a complete hand (usually 14 tiles) composed of melds and a pair.

· Meld Types:

  · Pung: A set of three identical tiles.

  · Kong: A set of four identical tiles.

  · Chow: A sequence of three consecutive tiles of the same suit (e.g., 2,3,4 of Bamboo).

· The standard winning hand is "Four Melds and a Pair."

Gameplay Flow (Simplified)

1. Building the Wall: All tiles are shuffled face-down and built into a square wall.

2. Dealing: Players are dealt 13 tiles each (the dealer starts with 14).

3. Taking Turns: On a turn, a player draws a tile (from the wall or a discard) and then discards one, trying to improve their hand.

4. Calling Tiles: Players can claim another player's discard to complete a meld (Pung, Kong, Chow), but this must be declared.

5. Winning (Going "Mahjong"): The first player to complete a legal hand (14 tiles) by drawing or claiming a discard shouts "Mahjong!" and wins the round.

The Soul of the Game: Strategy & Psychology

Mahjong is much more than just collecting sets. The depth lies in:

· Defensive Play ("Tile Discarding"): Carefully observing discards to avoid giving opponents the tiles they need.

· Hand Building & Scoring: Different combinations of tiles are worth different point values. Players often shift their target hand mid-game based on the tiles they draw.

· Reading Opponents: Inferring what hand an opponent is building based on their discards and declared melds.

· Risk vs. Reward: Deciding whether to play for a fast, low-scoring win or a rare, high-scoring hand.

Major Variants

This is where mahjong gets diverse! The core rules change significantly by region:

· Chinese Mahjong (Official/Competitive): Uses 144 tiles, has complex point systems, and often requires 8-point minimums to win.

· Hong Kong Mahjong (Cantonese): The most commonly played internationally. Faster-paced, with simpler scoring.

· Japanese Riichi Mahjong: Extremely popular, especially in anime/manga (like Akagi or Saki). Features the "Riichi" declaration (going for a closed hand), Dora (bonus tiles), and intense defensive play. It's the standard for competitive video games.

· American Mahjong: Governed by the NMJL, which publishes a new card of hands every year. Uses jokers and has very specific, changing winning hands.

Cultural Impact

· Social & Family Game: In China, it's a cornerstone of social life, played in homes and teahouses, especially during festivals.

· In Pop Culture: Featured in countless films, from The Joy Luck Club to Crazy Rich Asians. It's a central motif in anime and manga.

· Mind Sport: Recognized by international sports bodies, with world championships held regularly. It's praised for developing cognitive skills like memory, pattern recognition, and strategic thinking.

· Video Games: A huge genre, from casual mobile apps to serious simulations of Riichi Mahjong.

Why Is It So Enduring?

Mahjong offers a perfect blend: the tactile pleasure of beautiful tiles, the intellectual challenge of a deep strategy game, the excitement of chance, and the social joy of a table shared with friends or family. Each game is a unique puzzle, making it endlessly replayable.

Whether you're playing a casual family game or a high-stakes Riichi match, mahjong is a rich, rewarding world to explore.

Mahjong scoring can seem complex because it varies by rule set, but most systems follow a similar two-step process: first, calculate a base point value for the hand, then apply multipliers based on special patterns. The key is knowing which rule set you're playing.

Here is a comparison of four common scoring systems to show how they differ:

Hong Kong (Old Style)

· Base Score Method: Points for sets/pairs/flowers

· Multiplier System: Doubles ("faan") for special hands/conditions

· Key Concept: Points are added, then doubled for each applicable pattern.

Chinese Official (MCR)

· Base Score Method: Not applicable

· Multiplier System: Points ("fan") for 81 specific patterns

· Key Concept: Score is the sum of pattern points. Must meet a minimum (usually 8 fan).

Japanese (Riichi)

· Base Score Method: "Fu" points for melds and winning

· Multiplier System: "Han" for winning patterns ("yaku")

· Key Concept: Use a lookup table with your total Fu and Han to find the final score.

British (BMJA)

· Base Score Method: Points for sets/pairs/flowers

· Multiplier System: Doubles for special hands/conditions

· Key Concept: Similar to Hong Kong but with different point values and a 1,000-point limit.

✋ The Universal First Step: Read Your Hand

Before any math, arrange your 14 winning tiles into 4 melds (sets of 3 or 4 tiles) and 1 pair. Then, identify any special features:

· Melds Types: Are they Pungs/Kongs (three/four identical tiles) or Chows (sequence like 2-3-4)? Pungs/Kongs are usually worth more.

· Tile Rarity: Are they Honor tiles (Dragons, Winds) or Terminal tiles (1s and 9s)? These are "major" tiles and score higher.

· Concealment: Were the melds concealed (drawn yourself) or exposed (taken from a discard)? Concealed sets are often worth more.

· Special Patterns: Does your entire hand form a special pattern like All One Suit, All Pungs, or Seven Pairs? These grant large multipliers.

🧮 How Scoring Actually Works: Two Core Examples

Let's see how two very different systems apply these concepts.

1. Hong Kong / British "Point-and-Double" System

This system involves adding points, then doubling.

· Step 1: Count Base Points. Award points for each meld and bonus.

  · Example: A concealed pung of major tiles (like Dragons) might be 8 points. A flower tile might be 4 points.

  · Winning the hand adds a flat 20 points.

· Step 2: Apply Doubles (Faan). Each special pattern doubles the total base score.

  · Example: Having "All Pungs" might be a x2 double. Having "Dragon Pung" is another x2 double. This results in x4 total.

· Step 3: Final Score. (Base Points) x (Total Doubles). This total is often capped (e.g., at 1,000 points).

2. Japanese Riichi "Han-and-Fu" System

This system uses a lookup table based on two numbers.

· Step 1: Count Fu. This is a base number (rounded up to tens) calculated from your melds and winning method. A simple hand might be 30 fu, a complex one 70 fu.

· Step 2: Count Han. This is the multiplier count from your winning patterns ("yaku"). A common hand might have 3 han.

· Step 3: Look Up Score. Use a standard table with your Fu and Han to find the score. For example, 3 han, 70 fu scores 12,000 points if the dealer wins.

✅ How to Start Practicing

1. Pick One Rule Set: Don't try to learn all at once. Hong Kong is very common for beginners worldwide.

2. Use a Score Sheet or App: Find a "Hong Kong Mahjong Scoring Card" online or use a scoring app. These list all point values and doubles.

3. Practice on Finished Hands: Take a winning hand example (you can find many online) and try to score it step-by-step using your chosen guide.

Once you're comfortable with the basics, you can explore the deeper strategy behind forming high-scoring hands.

Tip: Before playing with others, always agree on the specific scoring rules and any point caps to avoid confusion.

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In Singapore mahjong, you first count tai (points/doubles) for the winning hand, then convert tai into a dollar payout based on the agreed stakes and whether it is self-draw or discard win.

���Step 1: Agree on base stakesBefore the game, everyone agrees on:A base rate for 1 tai, e.g. 0.10/0.20, 0.20/0.40, 0.30/0.60, 0.50/1, or 1/2.�The first number is what each “non-guilty” loser pays at 1 tai; the second is what the discarder pays at 1 tai.��Example: At 0.50/1, a 1‑tai winning hand off a discard means:Non‑discarding loser pays 0.50Discarder pays 1.00

Step 2: Count tai for the handYou then count how many tai the hand is worth from standard patterns.���Typical examples (not exhaustive):1 tai each: dragon pung, seat wind pung, prevailing wind pung, each flower/animal tile, all simples hand (ping hu), mixed outside hand, etc.��2 tai: triplet hand (all pungs), no flowers, full outside, etc.��4 tai: full flush (all one suit, 清一色).��Special limit hands are usually capped at 5 tai in many Singapore rulesets.��Sum all applicable tai; if the rules say minimum 1 tai to win, a 0‑tai hand cannot claim a win.��

Step 3: Convert tai to points or dollarsTwo common ways are used locally:A. Pure doubling from a “base”You can treat the stake as a base x and compute the winner’s score y using:[y = x \times 2^n], where [n] is number of tai.��Example: base x = 10 points, 4 tai ⇒ [10 \times 2^4 = 160] points.��Payout:Win from discard: discarder pays 2y, the other two each pay y (winner receives 4y total).��Self‑draw (zi mo): all three losers pay 2y each (winner receives 6y total).��B. Fixed Singapore tables (1–5 tai)A very common style fixes the money for 1–5 tai and treats 5 as limit.��Assume 1‑tai base = S$1:Discard win (someone throws your winning tile):1 tai: side losers pay S$1 each, discarder pays S$2, winner +S$4.��2 tai: side losers S$2, discarder S$4, winner +S$8.��3 tai: side losers S$4, discarder S$8, winner +S$16.��4 tai: side losers S$8, discarder S$16, winner +S$32.��5 tai (limit): side losers S$16, discarder S$32, winner +S$64.��Self‑draw (zi mo):1 tai: all three pay S$2, winner +S$6.��2 tai: all three pay S$4, winner +S$12.��3 tai: all three pay S$8, winner +S$24.��4 tai: all three pay S$16, winner +S$48.��5 tai: all three pay S$32, winner +S$96.��Groups often scale these numbers by their chosen base (e.g. “1 tai = 0.20” instead of 1.00).��Example payout table (discard win, scaled)If your group uses 0.50 as the “1‑tai side loser” value and 1.00 as “1‑tai discarder”:(These follow the same doubling idea; your group can tweak exact cents as long as everyone agrees in advance.)

���Step 4: Apply shooter vs self-draw ruleOnce you know the tai and the corresponding payout amount:If you win off someone’s discard (they “shoot” you):Shooter pays the higher amount, others pay the lower amount.���If you win by self‑draw:Everyone pays the higher amount (often double of side‑loser’s share at the same tai).���Some tables also have a “double zi mo” variant where self‑draw is even more expensive; check your group’s house rules.��If you tell me the exact stakes your friends use (e.g. “0.30/0.60 half, 5 tai limit”), I can walk you through a couple of concrete sample hands with the exact dollar amounts.